For the first time in nearly three decades, the Food and Drug Administration has approved a new chemical UV filter for use in sunscreens sold in the United States. The ingredient, called bemotrizinol, has dermatologists expressing enthusiasm about what it could mean for sun protection going forward, according to NPR.
"This is a very big deal," said Dr. Heather Rogers, a dermatologist in Seattle and a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Bemotrizinol offers protection against both UVA and UVB rays on its own. UVA rays cause premature aging and wrinkles, while UVB rays lead to sunburns. Both types can cause skin cancer. Rogers said the chemical sunscreen ingredients previously available in the U.S. were effective against UVB rays but weaker on UVA. Most American sunscreens relied on a compound called avobenzone for UVA protection, but avobenzone is not photo stable and breaks down quickly in sunlight. As it breaks down, it can release molecules that irritate skin.
Bemotrizinol is photo stable, meaning it breaks down more slowly and offers more lasting coverage. "So if you go a little longer than two hours to reapply your sunscreen, there will be more protection left," Rogers said. She added that people should still reapply every two hours.
Rogers said the ingredient "hits like really every box for us that we have been waiting for as dermatologists and consumers."
Bemotrizinol has been widely used in European and Asian sunscreens for decades. It took 20 years for the FDA to approve it in the U.S. because American sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs rather than cosmetics, as they are classified in Europe. That means ingredients require extensive testing for safety and effectiveness before approval.
"It's really expensive and time consuming," said Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist who teaches at the University of Cincinnati. The European company DSM-Firmenich spent at least $18 million over more than two decades pushing for FDA approval.
The extensive testing process did produce one clear benefit: a well-documented safety record. Bemotrizinol has been used in international markets long enough to generate substantial data on how it performs and how the body responds to it.
