Nirmal Purja, the celebrated British-Nepali mountaineer who set a world record climbing all 14 of the tallest mountains on earth, died Saturday after an avalanche struck his expedition on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan. He was 43. All ten members of the climbing party were killed.
His company, Elite Expeditions, confirmed the deaths in a statement. "It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak," the company said. Broad Peak stands at 26,414 feet and is among the most demanding climbs on the planet.
"We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive," the company added.
According to NPR, the expedition included climbers from Oman, Nepal, Pakistan, China and the United States. The American mountaineer was Mallory Geis, 39, of San Antonio, Texas, according to the Associated Press. Geis had closed her Pilates studio earlier this year to pursue high-altitude climbing.
In a social media post before the trip, she described her decision plainly. "So here we go. Taking a giant leap of faith into the unknown to see where life goes. I have a sneaking suspicion there will be lots of helmets, harnesses, and crampons involved," Geis wrote. In a separate post she wrote, "I'm heading out for my first big kid climbing expedition in Pakistan. Let's see if we can get this body and these boots up Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world."
Her father, George Geis, spoke to San Antonio local news station KENS 5. "She was a very positive person," he said. "She could do most anything she wanted to do."
Purja had become one of the most recognized figures in modern mountaineering. In 2019, he became the first person to climb all 14 mountains worldwide with elevations above 8,000 meters in 6 months and 6 days. The feat was documented in a Netflix film released in 2021. Before his climbing career, Purja served for a decade in the UK's Special Boat Service, an elite unit of the British military comparable to the US Navy SEALs.
Military helicopters and high-altitude rescue teams searched the area after the avalanche, but the terrain and weather conditions hampered their efforts. The remains of some climbers were flown to hospitals in Pakistan, according to the Associated Press, citing local police. Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah confirmed the deaths of the Nepalese climbers on social media Saturday.
Elite Expeditions released a final statement Saturday. "Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy. Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones."
