The UK government is under growing pressure to ensure that military uniforms are produced domestically, following concerns about reliance on overseas manufacturing. Some British army uniforms are currently made in China, raising questions about national security and job stability within the UK.
Fashion Roundtable plans to hand-deliver a letter to Downing Street calling on Prime Minister Andy Burnham to require more NHS and military uniforms to be made in Britain. The letter has more than 1,200 signatures, including those of presenter Ben Fogle and designer Patrick Grant. Fashion Roundtable says about 55% of NHS and Ministry of Defence uniforms are currently manufactured overseas.
The debate has been reignited by recent discussions around procurement policies and the potential for more domestic production of essential goods, according to The Guardian. Kate Hills, who leads a group promoting British manufacturing called Make It British, said that producing uniforms in the UK could give manufacturers more confidence to hire workers and plan for the long term.
She suggested that this approach would not only create jobs but also support long-term economic planning. The US provides a model for such policy through the Berry Amendment, which requires military uniforms to be made within the country.
This law was passed in 1941 and has helped ensure that uniform production supports American manufacturing jobs. The issue gained attention after a recent inquiry into the UK's handling of personal protective equipment during the pandemic, which found nearly £10 billion was wasted on flawed procurement decisions involving Chinese suppliers.
This has led to renewed interest in how public funds are spent and where goods are made for national use. Designer and entrepreneur Patrick Grant, who invested in a Blackburn-based outfitters called Cookson & Clegg in 2015, supports the idea of government procurement laws that favor UK manufacturers.
Cookson & Clegg had a military contract with the British army until 2009, and after Grant invested in the company in 2015 it later began making designs for his label Community Clothing. Grant noted that consistent business is essential for manufacturing, and long-term demand helps companies plan ahead.
He also emphasized the need to think about future employment trends as automation and artificial intelligence begin to reshape industries. He argued that government procurement legislation could help secure jobs in sectors that will remain essential even as technology advances.
The push for domestic production is part of a broader conversation about how the UK can maintain its economic resilience and protect employment during times of global uncertainty. Prime Minister Andy Burnham has argued that government procurement should do more to support UK manufacturers rather than prioritizing the lowest-cost overseas suppliers.
He is known to buy suits from Manchester-based brand Private White VC. The discussion around military uniforms reflects larger concerns about national sovereignty and economic independence.
It also highlights the role of public procurement in shaping the future of private manufacturing. As the UK considers how to best allocate resources for national defense, the question of where uniforms are made is becoming increasingly important.
Supporters say a shift toward domestic production could help build a more stable and secure supply chain for essential goods. It also aligns with broader goals of strengthening the UK’s manufacturing base and reducing reliance on foreign suppliers. Fashion Roundtable argues that domestic procurement could also preserve textile skills and support regional employment.
The debate continues as policymakers weigh the benefits of local production against global cost considerations. Supporters argue that investing in domestic manufacturing creates jobs and ensures long-term economic stability.
Grant said any move toward UK-only procurement would also need a simpler bidding process because current government tenders can be too complicated for smaller manufacturers. The Ministry of Defence has also created a Defence Office for Small Business Growth to help smaller companies gain access to defence contracts.